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The progression of women's professional attire over the course of the 20th century

   

A woman typing in an office. The calendar on the wall of the office dates this image, taken from a stereoscope card originally titled

An image depicts a woman engaged in typewriting within an office setting. The presence of a calendar on the office wall serves as a temporal marker for this scene, which is derived from a stereoscope card initially titled "Flirtation." Despite the fictional nature of this office setting, it is noteworthy that British middle-class Victorian women held positions in offices during the late 1800s. The woman is attired in a notably voluminous skirt, seemingly adorned with crinoline hoops, which had become somewhat outdated by 1899. This timeframe corresponds to the widespread commercial availability of typewriters since the mid-1870s.

The evolution of women's workwear unveils a distinctive path across the twentieth century, mirroring the dynamic transformation in women's societal roles. The extent of autonomy women enjoyed in shaping their attire was closely intertwined with the nature of their occupation.

In the realm of domestic service, a prevailing avenue of employment during that era, women found themselves bound by stringent constraints concerning their clothing. Their outfits were subject to the stipulations outlined by their employers.

Conversely, factory workers were presented with a slightly more lenient platform for self-expression. Beneath their aprons or overalls, they had room to incorporate patterned blouses, vibrant stockings, and even distinctive hairstyles.

The 1920s marked the dawn of a more liberated portrayal of femininity. As women secured voting rights and equal opportunities in the professional and educational realms, their response was marked by the abandonment of corsets and the elevation of hemlines. The emergence of 'flapper' style dresses characterized by lowered waistlines facilitated unhindered movement, freeing women from the constraints of tightly laced corsets. The fabrics employed grew more intricate, echoing the era's penchant for excess.

Women in the editorial department of Clement's Inn, The Strand, London. That week's edition of 'Votes for Women' is being cut and pasted by the young woman volunteers at the 'making-up table.' All the woman have long hair tied up in loose buns. Most of the woman wear white blouses and full skirts — two wear neck ties. 1911

In the editorial department of Clement's Inn, located along The Strand in London, women are immersed in their tasks. Predominantly young female volunteers are assembled around the 'making-up table,' carefully cutting and pasting content for the current week's edition of 'Votes for Women.' They share a common hairstyle, with their hair loosely tied up in buns. Their attire predominantly consists of white blouses and full skirts, with two of them choosing to wear neckties. This scene vividly captures the essence of the year 1911.

The profound impact of WWII left the Western world grappling with scarcity. Essential supplies were limited, and even clothing materials were not exempted from this constraint. Throughout much of the 1930s, practicality took precedence, as women embraced roomy suits and understated accessories.

Furthermore, as men fought abroad in the early 1940s, numerous women found themselves tending crops and assuming roles traditionally viewed as 'male-oriented.' This transformation was directly mirrored in their clothing choices – durable denim overalls became their armor against the rigors of outdoor challenges.

The late 1940s witnessed a resurgence of 'conventional' femininity. Although cloth materials remained rationed, the spotlight shifted to unadorned tea dresses. Curly hairstyles and makeup were employed to counterbalance the austerity inherent in the 1940s cuts.

The 1950s marked the revival of the cinched waist, crafting striking feminine contours. Formal work attire remained conservative but saw the addition of white gloves and the introduction of voluminous 'poodle' skirts.

In the 1960s, the focal point shifted to the youth culture, which enjoyed abundant time and resources for indulging in popular trends and fashion statements. The era clamored for shorter skirts and more voluminous hair, and these desires were indeed met. Work attire echoed this transformation, with short and boxy jackets paired with tweed skirts. The iconic pink Chanel suit worn by Jackie Kennedy became a recurrent inspiration, recreated time and again.

An American secretary sits at a desk behind a typewriter, on the phone taking messages. She wears black, and her blouse is semi-sheer. Her hair is worn neck-length with a permanent wave. 1930.

An American secretary is positioned at a desk, situated behind a typewriter, while simultaneously handling phone calls to collect messages. She is dressed in black attire, and her blouse boasts a semi-sheer quality. Her hair is styled at neck-length, characterized by a permanent wave. This snapshot captures the year 1930.

The 1970s welcomed a fresh wave of feminism, as women began penetrating office environments, poised to challenge the dominance of patriarchal society.

Throughout the 1970s, women showcased a diverse array of styles, sparking debates over whether trousers or dresses were more suitable workplace attire. From bell-bottom jeans to the iconic Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress, women of the 1970s exuded flair and fashion.

Empowered by their burgeoning presence in the workforce, women of the 1980s harnessed fashion as a means to assert their influence. Power dressing, characterized by broad shoulder pads and daring jewelry choices, became a way for women to make a bold statement in professional settings.

Notwithstanding the extravagance of the 1980s, the 1990s marked a return to minimalism. The vibrant hues of the prior decade yielded to more subdued shades, aligning with the prevailing conservative aesthetic.

Shoulder pads were cast aside, and already short skirts evolved into micro minis. In this article, we will showcase an array of images illustrating women's workwear across the 20th century.

Office at the railway works in Horwich, Lancashire, England. During the First World War many male rail workers joined the army, so women were employed in their place, in a variety of roles including blacksmiths, welders and electricians. Most of the women in this office wear white blouses, but the blouses are more closely fitting than in the previous picture. Their hair is still worn up, though now more loosely, and one woman — at the card cabinets — has shoulder-length hair worn down, while another wears long braids. At least two younger women also have white bows in their hair. The woman in the left foreground shows a shorter skirt length and a leather shoe with a golfing-style flap. 1917.

Within the railway works of Horwich, Lancashire, England, an office scene comes to life. Amid the First World War, numerous male rail workers heeded the call of duty and joined the military, prompting the employment of women to fill their roles. This encompassed an array of positions including blacksmiths, welders, and electricians.

In this office setting, most of the women opt for white blouses, which exhibit a more tailored fit compared to the previous image. Their hairstyles maintain an upswept form, albeit now with a slightly looser appearance. One woman, stationed by the card cabinets, allows her shoulder-length hair to flow freely, while another boasts long braids. Adding a touch of charm, at least two younger women adorn their hair with white bows.

Foregrounded on the left, a woman exemplifies a shorter skirt length and wears a leather shoe complete with a golfing-style flap. This snapshot encapsulates the year 1917.

Women sorting mail at the post office during the Christmas rush in England. The women wear a range of blouses, and the woman front-left wears a cardigan and a set of pearls. Their hair is again worn loosely tied up. The woman front-right wears a striped dress, as we're starting to see more patterns. 1920.Amid the Christmas rush in England, women are diligently sorting mail at the post office. Their attire encompasses a variety of blouses, showcasing individual styles. Positioned at the forefront on the left, one woman opts for a cardigan and a tasteful set of pearls, exuding a touch of elegance. As with their earlier appearance, their hair is casually tied up, granting a sense of practicality. Meanwhile, the woman on the front-right dons a striped dress, marking the emergence of more patterned choices. This scene encapsulates the year 1920.

Women working on forms for the conversion of the war loan at Government Printing and Stationery Office in Harrow, England. The older women wear their long hair tied up, though a number of the younger women have shorter, shoulder-length hair, some with a permanent wave or Engaged in tasks related to the conversion of the war loan, women are immersed in their work at the Government Printing and Stationery Office in Harrow, England. Among them, the older women adhere to the convention of tying their long hair up, while a group of younger counterparts sport shorter, shoulder-length hairdos. Several individuals opt for sleeveless over-dresses, imparting an air of practicality to their attire. Notably, one woman positioned on the right bares her arms. This tableau captures the year 1932.

325 American women working to fill mail orders in the office of the Book of the Month Club. The women wear a wide variety of blouses and dresses, including decorative patterns and polka dots, though most have V-necks. Some wear brooches. They typically wear shoulder-length hair; some, as the woman at the front, use hair nets. 1942.Within the office of the Book of the Month Club, a bustling scene unfolds as 325 American women diligently attend to filling mail orders. Their attire presents a diverse spectrum, featuring an array of blouses and dresses, some adorned with decorative patterns and polka dots. V-neck styles predominate, while a number of women accessorize with brooches. Sporting shoulder-length hair is the common trend, exemplified by the majority, while a woman at the forefront opts for a hair net. This vivid tableau captures the essence of the year 1942.

Ford Modeling Agency co-owner Eileen Ford and her husband answering calls requesting one of their 34 high fashion models. They're in her third floor office in New York. She is dressed in black, barefoot and has her hair cut short. 1948.In her third-floor office situated in New York, Eileen Ford, co-owner of the Ford Modeling Agency, is captured along with her husband as they respond to calls requesting their roster of 34 high-fashion models. Eileen Ford herself dons black attire, with her hair cut short, and is seen barefoot. This snapshot offers a glimpse into the year 1948.

Published in 'Picture Post' with the original caption: 'A woman wearing a black satin dress by Brenner with baby lace around the sleeves, neck and hemline which is not really suitable for the office.' 1950.Featured in the pages of 'Picture Post' with its original caption, this image showcases a woman donning a black satin dress by Brenner. Adorned with delicate baby lace around the sleeves, neckline, and hemline, the ensemble exudes elegance. However, it's noted that this attire might not be entirely suitable for the office environment. This snapshot captures the essence of the year 1950.

A young woman being interviewed for a job in the Keystone photographic agency offices. Her male interviewer wears a tie and large collar, while holding a cigarette. She still wears her raincoat indoors, under which we can spot her plaid skirt. She has long hair, tied up. 1950.Within the confines of the Keystone photographic agency offices, a young woman is seen undergoing a job interview. Her male interviewer is attired in a tie and boasts a sizable collar, with a cigarette in hand. Notably, the woman retains her raincoat indoors, revealing a glimpse of her plaid skirt. Her long hair is elegantly tied up. This scene encapsulates the year 1950.

Women office workers eat boxed lunches in Union Square, San Francisco, California. Their suits are formal, in conservative colours. Their hair is worn short, typically parted at the side. All the women appear to be wearing tan stockings or hose. 1956.In Union Square, San Francisco, California, a group of women office workers are captured enjoying their boxed lunches. Adorned in formal suits of conservative hues, their short hair is commonly parted at the side. Notably, all the women are observed wearing tan stockings or hose. This scene offers a glimpse into the year 1956.

(Left) Women at work in a typing pool at Shell Mex House in London. The woman at the front wears a jacket and scarf with a brooch and earrings. Her hair is cut short on her forehead, and like the other women shown, is worn waved. 1955. (Right) This woman sits at an illustrator's desk. She is dressed in black and wears a turtleneck sweater. Her hair is cut very short. 1957.(Left) Within the typing pool at Shell Mex House in London, women are diligently engaged in their tasks. Positioned at the forefront, a woman dons a jacket and scarf, accentuated by a brooch and earrings. Her hair is stylishly cut short on her forehead, a trend shared by the other women depicted, who also sport waved hairstyles. This portrayal captures the essence of the year 1955.

(Right) Seated at an illustrator's desk, another woman is clad in black attire, complemented by a turtleneck sweater. Her hair is notably cropped very short. This snapshot encapsulates the year 1957.

An American secretary typing whilst listening to dictation on her headset. She wears a sleeveless blue top and a blue checked skirt. Her hair is sharply cut and worn chin-length in a brushed bob. 1960s.

Administration office at Huntsman House, headquarters of Tetley's brewers in Leeds, West Yorkshire. Women workers use Sumlock machines, forerunners of the calculator. They wear clothes in a palette of bright colours. Of the 17 women in the picture, four wear pastel yellow, three wear pastel pink, two wear pastel blue. The women have a wide variety of hair styles, most strongly volumized with hairspray. 1968.

Women operators man computers at Eastern Airlines' reservations center in Miami, Florida. The woman in the centre-front wears a brightly striped top and very naturally styled hair, held loosely in a clip. The woman to the left wears a yellow cotton top and shoes. Cardigans are loosely flung over the backs of their chairs. 1970.

A woman using a data entry computer. She wears a bright pink skirt suit with white collar, cuffs and belt. The skirt is between thigh- and knee-length. Her hair is highly stylised, likely held in place with hairspray. 1970s.

Two women working with an IBM 1130 computer. Both wear highly patterned wide-collared tops. Their hair is styled naturally. 1974.

An African-American office worker takes a phone call. She wears a loose-fitting cardigan with a wide collar and wide, loose pants. Her shoes are unusually patterned. She wears a bracelet and ring, and her hair is lightly styled. 1975.

Margaret Thatcher making a telephone call in the Conservative Party coach during her election campaign. She wears a checked jacket and a blouse tied with a large bow. Her hair has a strong wave. 1979.

An office worker logs addresses into a Data General computer at a direct-mail company in Boston, Massachusetts. She wears a knit, fitted top; her hair is naturally styled and worn short. 1980.

A woman uses a personal computer at the NCR research and development facility in West Columbia, South Carolina. She wears a blouse with rolled sleeves and a formal knee- or calf-length tweed skirt, with court shoes. Her hair is shoulder-length, held away from her face by a slide. 1982.

Belgian-born American fashion designer Diane Von Furstenberg in her studio. Furstenberg has very strong makeup, including gloss lipstick. She wears large hoop earrings and oversized bracelets and rings. She dresses in black, accented with a white pocket handkerchief on her chest. 1987.

An office worker during the launch of Sky TV in London. She wears a green double-breasted jacket, possibly part of a uniform. Her hair is feathered in layers. In the background another woman wears a similar jacket. Her hair is bleached and waved over large earrings. 1989.

Sue Julian-Ottie, a collections system data manager, using a database computer. Her hair is long and natural, with side-swept bangs. She wears a dark, striped suit jacket. 1996.

A woman in a German call centre. She wears a scoop-neck, snug, short-sleeved top with a blue floral pattern. The neckline of the top is edged with lace, as are its sleeves. Although the overall garment design implies a connection to Victorian and Edwardian women's wear, as seen in the first pictures in this piece, it actually has little in common with women's garments of a hundred years before. This woman has a thumb ring and layered 'choker' necklaces. 1999.

Woman in a call center in Germany. Her highlighted hair is worn back in a low messy bun. She wears very light-coloured lipstick, a black T-shirt with a denim jacket on the back of her chair. A tattoo encircles her right upper arm. 1999.

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Topics: Streets Old USA